The Belvedere region of Italy

Hopefully this website won't spur on a stampede of tourists to this little-explored region of Italy. Meaning "beautiful view," the Belvedere runs inland off the Adriatic coast in Le Marche. In many ways, the landscape is quintessentially Tuscan. You'll find the well longed for rows of olive trees and sunflowers of Tuscany, to be sure. But the Belvedere is all the more spectacular with is jauntier hills and exquisite views of the Mar Adriatico. The hills are alive in the morning with the songs of birds and the humming of tractors working their way up such steep cliffs that it's any wonder that they don't just topple over. You won't find throngs of tourists there, even in the summer, and the waters of Grottamare and to the south are clean and clear. Agriturismi, or locally run guest lodges with accompanying farms, have blossomed in these parts. There, visitors eat meals prepared exclusively from the surrounding fields.

On the Wines of the region: The vineyards of "The Marches" produce simple table wines and complex Coneros imported the wide world over. Being as yet undiscovered by most Italian tourists, offers some of the cleanest, lightest, and lowest-priced wines. Sweet-tasting table wines are often a light red color with a flavor so balanced as to support any dish, heavy (beef or pork) or summer-lite (pasta or fish), and can be bought in local groceries for 1-2 Euro. Indigenous grape varieties such as Vernaccia, Lacrima, or the Montepulciano form some full-bodied red wines with particularly intense and unusual aromas such as sun-dried tomatoes, wood spice, pepper and blackberries. White wines such as the Verdicchios are crisp, straightforward, slightly honied, and cheap!

Aquacotta or "Cooked Water"

Serve as a full, quick summer meal on a steamy hot day or as an appetizer. Peasant food fit for a king.

INGREDIENTS:
  • A loaf of day-old Italian bread
  • 2 1/3 pounds (1 k) potatoes, peeled and cubed
  • 1 pound (500 g) ripe tomatoes, chopped (and peeled, if you like), drain seeds
  • 1 pound (500 g) farm-fresh greens*, well washed and chopped
  • Herbs**, minced
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt & Pepper to taste
PREPARATION:

*As with all of our recipes, the secret to success lies in the loving selection of raw ingredients. By now you've surely guessed that should locate a good, fragrant olive oil. Ideally, you'd import from The Marches, but a $5 bottle of Trader Joe's First Reserve olive oil will do the trick. Make sure you use a good Italian bread (although better if it is not fresh). The most authentic selection of greens would be farm-gathered chicory, borage (similar to spinach in flavor), and other wild herbs, together with marjoram**, thyme, parsley, and mentuccia (a minty-smelling relative of marjoram). If you can't get ahold of these particular greens, use spinach, dandelion greens, sprouts, and any other very-thin, leafy green that you can locate at a store like Whole Foods.

Fill a large pot 3/4 full of water, add the vegetables and herbs. Season with a little salt and cook for about 40 minutes at a low boil. Cut bread into thick slices. Dip each in the pot and allow the water to drip off before putting it in a bowl. Spoon some vegetables and a bit of the vegetable broth over the slices, drizzle some olive oil over them, and serve them with freshly ground pepper. For more flavor, pick up a Casciotta or Ambra, strong cheeses from the region, and grate on top before serving. Turn the extra broth into a fish soup or risotto. (see recipe from past Tuscany installment)

Wine Accompaniment

Bianchello del Metauro, Esino Bianco, or any Verdicchio. In other words, a colorful white or simple rose. If you can find a cheap table wine from this region, you're in the money. The cheaper the better, no joking for this tasty "leftovers" dish.

Smoky Turbot with Potatoes

Yield: 6 Servings

Ingredients:
  • 2 medium sized turbots (2-3 pounds a piece), split lengthwise, filleted and attached to the bone
  • 4 handfuls clean hay (yes, hay)
  • Parsley (1 tablespoon finely grated), and sprigs of rosemary and thyme
  • 12 fingerling potatoes
  • 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 Tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley
  • Kosher salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter mixed with 5T olive oil
  • Fleur de sel, to taste
Preparation

Rinse the turbot under cold water and pat dry. Divide the hay, rosemary, and thyme equally between 2 large, heavy pots with lids. One pot will be for for the fish, one for the potatoes. Place the rinsed potatoes in one of the pots, place over medium-high heat, and boil in water for 45 minutes. Afterwards, remove the potatoes and peel them using a cloth napkin to protect your fingers from the heat. Fold in ½ cup olive oil and chopped parsley, and season to taste. Cover and set aside (an oven at 175 F is a good place) to keep warm until serving.

Place the second pot over medium-high heat. While it heats, place 2 large skillets over medium high heat with 4 Tablespoons of butter in each. Sautee 1 turbot fillet in each skillet and sear for 3-4 minutes on each side or until golden and slightly crisped. Baste the fish frequently with the butter/olive oil mix (oil can be substituted for butter) as it cooks. Repeat until the fish is slightly seared, place in the broiler for 2 minutes at the end if you like the fish more crisply prepared. When the pot with herbs and greens begins to smoke, place the seared fillets inside, cover, and cook for about 8 minutes on a low heat. Transfer the fish to a platter, cover with foil or a lid, and allow to sit for 5-10 minutes. Afterwards, you can remove the bones before serving if you like. Place fish skin-side down, sprinkle with fleur de sel. Spoon toasted hay and herbs over the fish. Serve immediately with the potatoes.

This recipe modified from an original by Fabio Trabocchi.

Wine Accompaniment

Goes well with any of the above wines, a Bianchello or a Falerio dei Colli Ascolani.